Dries Van Noten 1 50 Lannoo Be-Books Pdf

DRIES VAN NOTEN 1 50 lannoo be
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DRIES VAN NOTEN, ONE HUNDRED COLLECTIONS, A STYLE EVOLVES. Susannah Frankel, Show 69 Men Spring Summer 2010, In November 2013 Dries Van Noten and I met in his father and grandfather changed the face of retail. London to discuss his forthcoming Inspirations exhi fashion in their home country His father especially. bition which opened at the Mus e de La Mode et introduced the concept of shopping for fashion as a life. Les Arts D coratifs in Paris to great critical acclaim style to the inhabitants of Flanders Dries worked and. in March the following year Over a lovely autumn travelled with him as a youngster learned both buying. evening and characteristically copious amounts of fine expertise and the importance of beautiful clothes in. food and wine Dries talked to me about his career to the process Later his own stores would reflect a total. date at one point going right back to the start The environment even a world again long before other. designer famously graduated from the fashion school fashion designers spoke in such terms This was as. at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in much a part of his story as the clothes His mother. 1980 His degree collection was notable in the first collected antique Belgian lace and table linen sewn in. instance for the fact that while the majority of his the cloisters of the Low Countries and painstakingly. contemporaries focused on either men s or women s described their provenance to her son who was by his. wear Dries couldn t decide between the two so he did own admission more interested in David Bowie By. both I just liked it that way he said with typical the time Dries was a teenager Bowie was whipping up. modesty While today that may be commonplace and a not so quiet storm and Dries was watching him on. more than a few designers chose to follow that same TV Inevitably the observant and sensitive young man. path in the 1990s in this as in so many other things absorbed several sides of that story as well. Dries was ahead of his time Dries Van Noten entered the Antwerp Academy. There s more My show was in fact based on reli in 1976 Punk was taking London and New York by. gious apparel Dries remembered So of course it was storm but his fashion education could not have been. an extravaganza He uses that word often although more steeped in bourgeois tradition Overseen by the. then as now there is nothing ostentatious about his legendary Mme Prigot students were not allowed to. work however rich in texture fabrication colour and wear jeans Fashion folklore has it that if their hair was. concept it is anything but that It was four collections unruly she would march them straight to the hair. in one and quite expanded There was a lot of linen an dressers insisting on a well mannered chignon Prigot. evening section with snakeskin coats silks and Fortuny was interested solely Dries explained in Coco Chanel. pleats There were sari silks too a lot of embroideries It was the late 1970s It was punk Of course when. hand painting you have that many restrictions you rebel against. And so it began Dries was already working as a them And that makes things quite interesting It does. commercial designer to cover costs and that went indeed References to both punk and Chanel would. some way towards funding the presentation More find their way into more than a few of his men s and. importantly while so many fledgling designers strug women s collections in the years that followed with a. gle to find their identity for Dries the seeds that barbed wire print here show 86 Men Spring Summer. would germinate and grow to make Dries Van Noten 2014 a bi coloured pump there show 70 Women. far and away Belgium s most successful independent Spring Summer 2010 and so on. fashion house had been sown even before his company Dries time at the Academy was especially signifi. was founded That s not to say the clothes resembled cant I think I went through a lot of different things. his later work in any literal sense He doesn t have I had had a traditional education he says He was. them any more he says although he believes the taught by Jesuit priests until the age of 16 Being. sketches must be somewhere Still the overriding of thrown into a fashion school in 1976 wasn t like one. boundaries between gender in the fashion system and new world opening up It was like ten new worlds. the relevance of that to contemporary culture men opening up for me at the same time For me that was. and women don t walk separately in life so why should all new It was like a crash course in fashion as well as. they on the catwalk and the blurring of those same in modern times. lines in clothing women in oversized men s coats Dries Van Noten was not alone in wanting to break. we come back to that again and again or men in the mould On the contrary He and his peers prin. fuchsia pink chiffon show 61 Men Spring Summer cipally Ann Demeulemeester Dirk Van Saene Dirk. 2008 were all present and correct So too was the Bikkembergs Marina Yee Walter Van Beirendonck. fruitful tension between maximalism and the Baroque and Martin Margiela marked the beginning of. between minimalism and restraint the juxtaposition the establishment of Belgian fashion on the interna. of unlikely fabrics the high and the low the impec tional stage It is widely reported that Amy Spindler. cably finished and the worn and an obsession with then fashion editor of The New York Times coined the. print and surface embellishment that is second to none moniker The Antwerp Six but it was in fact the. Central to Dries handwriting also is the relation designers themselves who did that They believed they. ship between tradition and formality and outright would have more impact as a collective and more. rebellion That too started here and even before Both pragmatically no one outside of their circles could. 03 MEN S SPRING SUMMER 1993, For his first outdoor show Dries Van Noten com. mandeered the cobbled courtyard of the Caf de la, Gare a caf theatre in the Marais and turned it into. a flower market All the props were brought from, Belgium the blooms imported from Holland In.
this pre EU era French customs officers were par, ticularly vigilant so everything had to be smuggled. in from the Low Countries on back roads To make, the situation even trickier France was on strike. Dries and his team were understandably elated, that the show even came off Their joy was palpable. on the runway where everyone looked gorgeous, and happy This was well before it was mandated. that models never smile as they parade back and, forth The music was a happy mash up too with.
Juanita Banana and Zorba s Dance, This was technically also a menswear presenta. tion but there were also looks from his women s, collection He d done the same thing with his two. previous shows This time it made particular sense, especially at the finale when couples stepped out. dressed in white and ecru jackets and waistcoats, decorated with roses It was like being at a country. wedding And everyone went home with a bunch, of flowers.
For the first time Dries here featured custom, made fabrics striped and checked poplins prints. hand blocked in India alongside his textured, patterned knitwear And given that this was his. first outdoor show it was also the first time his, curious relationship with the elements came into. play The weather forecast was awful but it was not. until the show ended that the sky turned black, Twenty minutes later the rains came making the. cobblestones so slippery that the models would, never have been able to walk in their espadrilles.
Divine intervention Perhaps, Theme Flower Market, Date Friday 3 July 1992 Time 5 30 pm. Location Caf de la Gare Paris, Music Henri Salvador Juanita Banana. 11 MEN S AUTUMN WINTER 1995 96, Show 11 had a very to the point title Sports It. took place in Le Stade Geo Andre a futuristic, stadium and in keeping with the novelty of the. venue the traditional division between runway and, backstage was dispensed with The show space was.
divided by metal racks on which the clothes were, hung and behind which the models changed and. had their hair and faces done all within view of, the audience. The idea of division seemed to determine the, nature of the collection too The tailoring was the. height of military influenced English tradition, high buttoning suits and substantial double. breasted coats Counterpointing that were the, sporting elements Bold football scarves letter.
sweaters and t shirts and knits bearing large num, bers had an almost nostalgic edge But the bright. colour palette injected a surreal edge with pinks, oranges and yellows hotting up classic checks and. tweeds The footwear brogues in orange and red, compounded the effect. At this point most of the prominent models, were still out of reach but some chose to walk for. Dries for free For the rest he still called on staff. and friends to man the runway Here it left the, audience with the impressive spectacle of fellow.
designer Walter Van Beirendonck striding along, in a scarlet coat that would have done justice to a. Royal Guardsmen, Theme Sports, Date Friday 27 January 1995 Time 5 30 pm. Location Stade G o Andr Paris, Music Edwyn Collins A Girl Like You. DRIES VAN NOTEN ONE HUNDRED COLLECTIONS A STYLE EVOLVES Susannah Frankel Show 69 Men Spring Summer 2010 7 In November 2013 Dries Van Noten and I met in London to discuss his forthcoming Inspirations exhi bition which opened at the Mus e de La Mode et Les Arts D coratifs in Paris to great critical acclaim in March the following year Over a lovely autumn evening and characteristically

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