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An insight into the traditional Bandhej craft of Sikar
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734 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE VOL 11 No 4 OCTOBER 2012. Methodology techniques and tools used in designing tying and. Bandhani involves different amateur people in dying to strive for excellence. artisan s category tier who ties the knots resisting. colour designer who chalks outs the prints and Recent trends in Bandhej technique. dyer who dyes the tied cloths Each of them To keep pace with the times the techniques and. specializes in their domain of expertise tools used by the artisans have undergone lot of. To explore the techniques patterns motifs and change Designs of Bandhej are prepared and printed. their selection criteria s 125 artisans from Sikar city by the specialist designers A change has come in the. were selected The sector is unorganized The artisans process of transferring the designs Traditional. engaged in the Bandhej craft are not registered in any designers used engraved wooden blocks to impress. Government or non Government agency A baseline the design on the cloth However in Sikar at present. survey was conducted to know that there are nearly only 24 4 of the designers are using the wooden. 7000 families of tiers living in 11 colonies 800 blocks Figs 1 2 whereas 76 6 designers use. families of dyers living in 8 colonies spread all plastic sheet as a modern tool Table 1 Here a 2 3. through the city Five families from each selected mm i e 8 10 micron thick plastic sheet of a certain. colony were selected using snowball method A great size is taken and holes are made into it according to. care was taken by the investigator to select those the pattern of the motif or design drawn with pen by. families which produce maximum amount of tie and designers himself with the help of a syringe used of. dye work Thus 55 tiers 40 dyers were taken as the veterinary doctors The syringe is cut from the. sample of the study There are about 300 designers pricking point and is welded to a screw driver in order. Hence 10 of them making a total of 30 designers to get big holes With their innate skills the designers. were taken as the sample of the study make holes as per the patterns drawn Then the paper. The data for the present study was collected by is spread on the grey cloth on which Bandhani has to. filling up the questionnaire prepared meticulously be done and wiped with a piece of foam dipped in a. after studying the literature concerned It included solution of soil multani mitti and fugitive colour. both closed and open ended questions Artisans were generally blue Thus the designs are printed through. told the purpose of the study and their verbal consent the holes in a few minutes Whereas traditionally. was taken before administering the questionnaire wooden blocks were used which were of 45 60 sq cm. A pilot study was also conducted to verify the in size The plastic sheets used now days are of 90. authenticity of the questionnaire 180 sq cm in size Thus with plastic sheets design can. be imprinted on large area of the cloth in less time. Results and discussion,Since wooden blocks demand more time labour and. Bandhej is a highly skill based art involving,money therefore plastic sheets are more used in. expertise of three different kinds of people these are. design imprinting Fig 3, tier dyer and designer The ultimate outcome of the. meticulous efforts put in by these artisans results into Table 1 Recent trend in Bandhej technique. exquisite pieces which are handcrafted Individual, roles of these three are significant Designers need to N 125 30 55 40. be artistic to create design to keep pace with the Bandhej Modern tools Percent Traditionaltools Percent. changing market demands tiers who with perfection processes equipments equipment. and muscular coordination of the fingers have to 1 Designing Plastic sheet 76 6 Wooden block 24 4. maintain the intricacy of design with the right kind of 2 Tying Tools 80 Nakhuna 80. tension while tying the fabric Further dyers who with Plastic pipe. the experience prepare beautiful tints and shades of Thread Silk 100 Cotton. different colors ought to have an eye for color 3 Dyeing Direct and 100 Natural Dyes. combination They give final color to the product Acid Dyes. they are the people who understand dyes and their Sodium 77 5. hydrosulphite, preparation process along with various additives and.
Spinning 100, chemicals Hence designers tiers and dyers each with machine. their own expertise perform their roles With the Washing 100. passage of time certain modification were done in machine. JAIN TIWARI TRADITIONAL BANDHEJ CRAFT OF SIKAR CITY OF RAJASTHAN 735. After designing the next stage is tying the printed Table 2 Selection criteria for designs. design the art of tying the Bandhani is still the same N 30. as in olden days The tool used for it has undergone S No Selection of design Percent. change for improvement The grey printed cloth was,1 Customer choice 59 9. taken with help of one hand and is lifted above with. 2 Designer made 21, the help of nail in the form of a metal cone worn in. 3 Traditional designs 19 1, the index finger which has a pointed end to facilitate. Type of Motif Modern design Traditional design, lifting of cloth for tying It is locally called nakhuna.
Animal bird motif 30 53 3, Fig 4 In Sikar however along with nakhuna many Bel buti motif 46 6 60. women 80 have started using a plastic pipe which Rasleela motif 10 25. is taken from a used Gel pen The plastic pipe is Geometric motif 70 35. inserted in the thread coming from the cone The tiers. hold the pipe while tying the impressed design the Multiple responses are possible. pipe helps in tying the cloth smoothly without, entangling the thread Figs 5 6 This is a novel These equipments are used to wring out the water. change brought for convenience It also makes the from the dyed cloth thus saving time and labour of. tying process faster and protects their fingers from the artisans Fig 8. being hurt by constant tying Majority of the tiers. revealed that now day s only silk thread is used in Selection criteria for design. tying different types of cloths The reason can be that Designs are the backbone of the Bandhej craft As. majority of the Bandhani production involves the use many as 59 9 designs are selected keeping in mind. of silk cloth Silk cloths include Ojhariya Georgette the consumer choice as shown in Table 2 Customers. Italian crepe etc Traditionally only cotton thread was pick up the Bandhej products depending upon how. used as shown in Table 1 appealing the designs are Only 21 designs are. With respect to dying traditional dyers used ingenuously made by the creativity of the designers. natural dyes extracted from plant sources mainly themselves and rest 19 1 designs are the traditional. designs which have not been abolished with the,roots flowers leaves and berries Hazi Gulam. passage of time Thus the designs have become more, Hussain a national awardee of Sikar shared that in. specific to the customer demand which keep on,ancient days a limited variety of colours were.
available yellow was extracted from kesula flower,With the change of time designers modified the. red from rose leaves mixed with some root and light. traditional designs due to the demand of something. brown from the skin of khus tree which used to give. novel which is in the vogue The Table shows that, fragrance also and these days acid and direct dyes are. among the traditional designs animal bird motifs, used dominantly Earlier dyers had to use many 53 3 and Bel buti motifs 60 are dominant Figs. containers for different colours to be dyed whereas 9 10 Geometric figures were less used only 35. with the introduction of sodium hydrosulphite locally designs were made of geometrical patterns However. called as hydros only one container can be used for modern designs are prominently based on geometric. dying various colours Sodium hydrosulphite is a figures Figs 11 12 As the geometric designs are. strong bleaching agent that bleaches any colour easy to make and demand less labor 70 designs. dissolved in the water Fig 7 Consequently the same include geometric patterns Further bel buti motifs. water is used and reused for dying many colours are also included in 46 6 designs. Only 10gm of sodium hydrosulphite can bleach water Moreover the traditional designs like animal bird. to be used for dying 50 saris Dyers of Sikar motifs and rasleela are very minute designs and take a. expressed that use of this bleaching agent has made lot of time labour cost and skill and are used by royal. dying very easy Earlier they needed at least 100 L of or well off families Modern designs are not very. water to dye 10 saris The same number can be dyed minute and designers reduce the cost time and labour. now in 40 50 L of water As data shown in Table 1 in order to make them available for the low and. there are significant changes in traditional and in medium income groups Consequently today there. modern techniques of dying Dyers of Sikar city use are very few skillful designers who can make those. washing machine and mechanical spinning machine traditional designs Only 10 designs are made with. 736 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE VOL 11 No 4 OCTOBER 2012. Figs 1 12 1 2 Wooden blocks for imprinting designs 3 Plastic sheet for imprinting 4 A lady tying a knots with nakhuna. 5 Tier using a plastic pipe and nakhuna 6 Tier showing the plastic pipe 7 Dyer using modern equipmen 8 Using sodium. hydrosulphite hydros 9 Traditional bird design 10 Traditional bel buti design and 11 12 Modern bel buti design. JAIN TIWARI TRADITIONAL BANDHEJ CRAFT OF SIKAR CITY OF RAJASTHAN 737. rasleela motifs and 30 are using animal bird awareness enhancement etc b marketing. motifs Market demand fashion trends and consumer development i e dissemination of information on. choice forced the artisans to change the traditional export producers marketing strategy formulation. motifs into stylized forms exhibition and buyer seller meet publicity campaign. for brand building etc c technical intervention or. Conclusion technological up gradation in different stages of value. From the present study it is concluded that the chain and d institutional development which. Bandhej Craft of Sikar has undergone a number of involves bulk purchase credit facilitation. changes Colonies of tiers and dyers still continue this development of public information centers and social. traditional craft and pass it to their successors trying intervention artisans This craft sector needs. their level best to keep pace with the customer immediate attention by the government by arranging. demands There are modifications and adaptations in various social welfare schemes and incentives for the. the technique of dyeing tying and designing and also artisans thereby ensuring social security and socio. there is a change in selection criteria for motifs of economic empowerment of the artisans community. design so as to meet the demand of the consumers Besides this it is recommended that grey material. who are from various socio economic positions New should be provided at reasonable price Special. designs are customer and sales oriented Ease in training should be imparted to improve dyeing. making the designs is also an influential factor The knowledge about advanced dyes The dyers should be. complicated designs have given way to more made aware about the process of multi colour dyeing. contemporary stylized geometric designs All these Using hydro in order to reduce consumption of water. modifications artisans have learned by trial and error is a very crude one environmental and cost issues. method striving to meet the costumer choices No need to be examined while using it Hydro is a. formal training is given to them They are dependent powerful reducing bleaching agent Whenever this. on the traders for the sale as well as for the raw salt is added in water bath to destroy any previously. material who make the best of the profit An insight added dye there is every possibility that same amount. into this traditional art makes one realize the of it is present in the bath Afterwards when the same. importance of these artisans in a big way water is reused for preparing another dye solution. some amount of dye would be wasted by the reducing. Recommendations action of the excess hydro present in the water. Bandhej craft products have market value not only Hence an urgent need is felt to update the knowledge. in India but also in other countries too Concentrated of the dyers Technology should be improved for ease. efforts from the Government organizations as well as in dying Promotion of the products through. Non Government organizations are missing which can advertisements exhibition and trade fairs should be. help these artisans to secure a promising future done to keep an edge with the global scenario. Hence they need to be centralized not only to, enhance consistency regularity and uniformity of Acknowledgement. production but also to reduce the interference of the Author is grateful to all the artisans and Mr Hazi. middle men or traders thereby reducing cost of the Gulam Hussain a national awardee of Sikar for. produce yet better profit margin realization of the providing the valuable information. artisans themselves For the survival and sustenance. of this most prominent traditional method of hand References. 1 Tie Dye Textile Collection of Michael Abbott available at. work various Governments as well as Non http www jaintextile com Accessed on 4 August 2010. Government organization have to play proactive roles 2 Bhandari Vandana Custom Textile and Jewellery of India. in the form of integrated cluster development Prakash books Jaipur 2004 66 67. approach The entire artisans community should be 3 Kothari Gulab Colorful Textile of Rajasthan Rajasthan. Publication divison Jaipur printer Pvt Ltd Jaipur India. brought under the umbrella of various consortia or 1995 34 35. cooperative societies the main object of which would 4 Belfer N Batik and Tie and Dye techniques Dover. be a capacity building like skill up gradation Publication Allah bad 1992 120 121.

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